Holly Days Nursery, Inc., offers a full array of horticultural services but we understand that many of you enjoy getting your hands dirty and tackling projects yourselves. We have developed this knowledge base in order to help you approach and complete your own projects.
Plant a tree or shrub:
Think of the tree you purchased as a lifetime investment. How well your tree and investment grows depends on the type of tree and location you select for planting, the care you provide when the tree is planted and follow-up care.
Dig the hole
Don't skimp on this job. "it's better to put a $100.00 tree on a $200.00 hole than it is to put a $200.00 tree in a $100.00 hole." Make the whole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the rootball, but only as deep as the rootball. It is important to make the hole wide because the tree roots on a newly established tree must push through surrounding soil to establish. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.
Place the tree in the hole
Before placing the tree in the hole, check to make sure the hole has been dug to the proper depth and no more. The majority of the roots on a newly planted tree will develop in the top 12" of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 1-2" above the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This will allow for some settling. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the rootball and never by the trunk.
Straighten the tree
Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition.
Fill in the Hole
Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the rootball. Then water the soil around the ball to help remove any air pockets. If the tree is balled and burlapped, cut and remove the string and wire from around the trunk. Now you can fill the rest of the hole with soil. Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.
Stakes
It is not necessary to stake the plant unless it is very loose in the soil. Studies have shown that trees will establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required where windy conditions are a concern. If staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide flexible tie material will hold the tree upright and minimize injury to the trunk. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
Mulch
Mulch acts as a blanket to hold moisture, protect against harsh soil temperatures, both hot and cold, and reduces competition from grass and weeds. A 2-4" layer is ideal. When placing mulch, care should be taken so that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered.
Mulch
How much mulch do I need?
Normally, a 2-3" layer of mulch is recommended. One cubic yard (27 cubic feet) will cover roughly 162 square feet if spread 2” thick. Be sure to smooth the mulch evenly by using a rake, or your hands. Mulch that is lightly patted into place will last longer and prevent soil erosion. When you are finished, a light watering on your mulch will ensure a smooth and finished look.
How much mulch is too much mulch?
As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches. Unfortunately, North American landscapes are falling victim to a plague of overmulching. A new term, "mulch volcanoes," has emerged to describe mulch that has been piled up around the base of trees. Most organic mulches must be replenished, but the rate of decomposition varies. Some mulch, such as cypress mulch, can remain intact for many years. Top dressing with new mulch annually (often for the sake of refreshing the color) creates a build-up to depths that can be unhealthy. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems.
Why should I mulch?
• Weed Control: When mulch is spread over your beds, it reduces the amount of light reaching weed seedlings and prevents their growth.
• Moisture Retention: Mulch helps reduce the speed of water evaporation, thus reducing the frequency of watering.
• Attractive Appearance: Whether you choose one of our traditional root and bark mulches, or our colored "Black Night" mulch, each will provide a neat, uniform look to your landscape.
• Temperature Control: Mulch acts as insulation for your plants. It will keep your plants warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
• Decomposition: As mulch decomposes over time, it will help supply nutrients to your soil and plants.
When should I mulch?
Spring and fall are the best times, but mulch can be spread any time of the year, including winter.
What mulch is right for me?
We offer the following mulches and soils:
• Colored Mulches: Black Night & Red Rose are colored hardwood mulch. They have the ability to stay dark, black & red in color throughout the year has made these our most popular mulches. The colored mulches have good stability qualities that make it ideal mulch for steep hills and berms. They are made from hardwoods.
• Triple Ground Root Mulch: All-organic, aged root mulch is an excellent compliment to any landscape bed. It is comprised of aged wood chips and ground roots. It is brown in color.
Soil
What soil is right for me?
• Earthmate: It is a rich soil amendment that adds nutrients to existing soil. It is made from sewage sludge, mixed with wood chips and composted. It is aged and screened to produce a clean, safe, odorless growing medium suitable for soil conditioning and top dressing. * Fall is a great time to top dress your lawn with Earthmate.
• Topsoil: Aerated topsoil is used for building beds, berms, normal gardening, grading lawns, filling holes or growing grass.
• Planting Soil: Planting soil is a blend of compost, topsoil and Earthmate. It is excellent for new beds and drains very well.
• Mushroom Soil: Mushroom soil is the soil used by mushroom growers. It is completely organic and is an excellent medium for flower beds and drains well.
• Rubber Mulch: Rubberific mulch is a completely non-toxic material that needs to be applied only at a depth of 1" to 1-1/2" and lasts for up to 5 years.
Stone
How much stone do I need?
• 1 cubic yard of stone/gravel will cover 100 sq feet at approx. 2" deep. Call if you have any questions.
What stone is right for me?
We offer the following stones:
• Red Tipple: 3/8" red crushed stone used to beautify any landscape area. Red Tipple can also be used as decorative mulch.
• Goose Eggs: 2-4" smooth stone. White to light tan in color.
• River Jack: 2-4" smooth stone. Range of colors used for drainage or decorative ground cover.
• 3/4" Clean Stone: Drainage stone, gray in color.
• 3/4" Clean White Stone: Drainage or decorative stone, white in color.
• 3/4 Modified Stone: Compact base stone (1/8 -3/4" crushed stone). Base material for paver patios, concrete, footings, etc.
• Grit: Small grey pebbles used for based stone.
Water
How to Water your Plants
You don’t need to be an experienced horticulturist to understand proper watering techniques and to enjoy success with your new plants. The most common cause of failure when new plants are establishing themselves is proper watering, (ie. Too much or too little). There must be sufficient water to reach all the way to the bottom of the rootball. At the time of planting, watering aids in settling the soil, improving soil-root contact and assuring adequate initial moisture. The first few months of watering are crucial to the survival of your new tree or shrub. The following 2-3 years after planting, watering aids in providing adequate soil moisture while root systems are becoming established.
Do not water by schedule! Water according to current conditions and the needs of the plant - deep watering less frequently! Check soil conditions by pushing aside mulch and touching the soil. Water only if soil feels dry. If you are uncertain about soil conditions, a moisture meter (available at Holly Days) is a simple, useful tool. The following are some basic rules for a green thumb:
• Deep watering less frequently - Shrubs and trees cannot effectively be watered by hand watering. The best practice is to place a hose at the base of the plant and let the water flow at a slow trickle for 20 minutes on small shrubs and 2 hours on trees. If you setup sprinklers on the shrubs, Figure on 2-3 hours minimum of watering. For large plants and trees use your sprinkler overnight.
• Do Not Water By Schedule - Several factors will determine how often your plant needs watering. Among these are soil type, exposure, type and size of plant and recent rainfall.
• Checking Soil Conditions - Pull away the mulch surrounding the plant, shrub or tree. Dig down 3-4 inches around the edge of the rootball and take up some soil in your hand. If moisture can be squeezed out, or if it easily sticks together in a ball, do not water. Check the soil again in a few days. If, when you take up the soil in your hand, it crumbles and will not stick together, it is time to water.
• Consider Other Features - Not all areas of the landscape will need to be watered at the same time. To insure proper watering, check the status of your soil in diverse areas of your landscape, e.g. a sloped area, a flat area, shaded or partially shaded area, etc.
Signs of water stress from too little water include wilting, a change of leaf color (from shiny to dull) and premature leaf fall.
Do not over water. Signs of over watering include yellowing, dropping leaves from center of plant, wilting and damp mulch. Examine the soil 5" down next to the rootball. If it is damp or wet, let it dry out. If it is dry, give it some water.
Watering should not be done when ground is frozen. All recently transplanted trees, shade or evergreen, should go into winter with ample moisture in the soil.
Water all plants SLOWLY and GENTLY.
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